viernes, 13 de septiembre de 2013

Soothing mistrusts we let ourselves believe in order to face a daunting world

12.09.2013
I went to a comedy night with Sarah and some of her friends. The first act made me laugh so much that I lost track of time. When the show finished, I did my thing and left.

The tube (metro, in this wilderness) closes at about 23:33 but fortunately taxis are not as expensive as in Europe (let along London). My taxi driver was from Pakistan. As I’ve already forgotten his name, I’ll call him Sanobar. He’s been working in Dubai for the last 5 years. The last time he went to his country was almost 2 years ago: he works 12h a day, 7 days a week. No Sundays, no breaks, no holidays. He’s upset when his boss asks him what he is complaining about. With an English even more broken than mine, Sanobar tells me that he got married 2 months ago, however, his wife lives back in Pakistan with his mum and sisters. She has a PhD (he doesn’t remember what on) that is not recognized in Dubai. He adds: “In my city women are forbidden to work”. All his savings go for his ladies, then. Every penny he makes is to be sent via bank to feed and maintain them. Every single penny.

We then talk about music. He likes Pashto musci and shows me the difference between Urdu and Pashto songs.


This is one of the things that shocks me more about Dubai. This sector of society is completely ignored in the emirates. We know they are there, we know nothing would work without them, we see them working from the sunrise till sunset of our eyelids. Always patent but subtly disguised, omnipresent and invisible. We choose to ignore them. Life goes on and we flutter around the shiny lights as brainless moths. Blue ants, they are called. Little blue dots moving around frantically in the far away distance, barely perceived.

A total violation of human rights.

Close your eyes.

Welcome to Dubai.


It is amazing how adaptable human beings are.
I’m surprise I don’t vomit in repulsion everyday.
Indeed, I am enjoying the city.
I like the sun
I like the juices
like
the shiny lights
Brain-less-moth.


miércoles, 11 de septiembre de 2013

“Every one of my books has killed me a little more” NM

Dearest you all,

I’ll need a little bit more reinforcement from the English speaker community reading these news. So far, only one charitable soul has corrected my writing. When working hard, a bit of feedback is very welcome. Bear in mind that writing in Spanish is easier, quicker and more satisfying to my person, so please, give me some help here!

As you can imagine, I have been keeping myself busy for the last few days :).

Last Friday I skyped with the director of the WCS (Wildlife Conservation Society – that is, a very, very important WL organization). Lovely man, very engaged with his work and worried about making the world a better place. He advised me to get some more field work experience if I want to pursue a career in the One Health field. No more rehab centers, he said. Therefore, I’ve already started my eternal quest for the next (hopefully)-right step: research assistant, PhD, anything that gives me that that I lack (wow, we could talk ages about this sentence!). My CV is already flying to Australia, Ivory Coast, the States, Canada…

As usual […].

Anyway, that same day in the morning we went to the Abu Dhabi International Hunting and Equestrian Exhibition. I had never been in such kind of place before. It was quite impressive. In the UAE the Emirati (local people) make up only less than 15 percent of the population: I think all of them where there that day (my camera run out of battery, Sarah (the nurse) got some pics for me: I’m waiting for them to be emailed). There was a nice heritage section where they showed the traditional way of living at the UAE: how men used to go out for pearl diving in a dhow (traditional boat), toasted and grained the coffee beans to make Arabic coffee in the dessert while hunting with the saluki hunting dogs and falcons and how women stayed indoors sewing traditional cloths and baskets.




Mongolian Eagle

Saluki dog

Young generation keeping falconry alive

Yes, those ARE diamonds

They like stylish camping


We got to see saluki dogs (one of them was even stained with henna!), a camel auction (O.ô), crazy hunting guns, painted artwork about UAE history and customs, and some fancy accessories (see pic below).
We met our Big boss (BB) there (the brother of the ruler), who joined us for the rest of the journey. We were stopped and invited to have Arabic coffee and chai everywhere we passed by. There are no written rules about tea, but regarding coffee, if you finish it and simply pass the cup to the guy who served it, you’ll get it refilled. If you want no more, you’ll have to shake with a little tilt the bottom of it! (the menace of loads of wee wees afterwards will teach you quick!). I pointed out the nice smell coming from one of the stands and 3 seconds later we all got a present each from the BB: a nice and expensive kind of incense.  He said that you can put your cloths over it while burning and they’ll get sweetly impregnated with its magnificent essence (nevertheless, it is to be used with caution:). After the unexpected present and once walking in privacy through the corridors, he remarked that I “have a great body”. A mí se me quedo cara de pez con esas.

Saturday was a day I spent with one of the vets from the hospital, Antonio (Italian). We first went to the Jumeirah beach (swimming in a 31-32oC sea at 7.30am does induce sleep) followed by a visit to one of the (thousands of) mosques here in Dubai where we got an “Open doors, open minds” introductory session of Islam. They almost got my soul with all that love and respect but failed when tried to explain the scientific evidence of their religion… I still have to make another trip to Abu Dhabi to visit its mosque (according to Wiki: It is the largest mosque in the UAE and the 8th largest mosque in the world). Dinner was at a Lebanese (yes!) restaurant at another of the Dubai’s malls (I gathered enough leftovers to cover my food needs for two days!).  

Insiders

Una más

Ok... this was the car thermometer... but still quite impressive!

Jumeirah beach


On Sunday I met a CS who mistakenly thought we were going on a date. Good thing: I got a pretty foulard by the face!
We met at Madinat Jumeirah, another “resort” that comprises a couple of hotels, several villas, gyms, spas, a huge theater, a market (or Souk), ballrooms and over 40 restaurants and bars. We decided to spend some time in the traditional Arabic-style Souk and go for a drink after. How we ended up in a wedding ring shop, I do not know; but I can assure you that wearing a £1,200 yellow, white and rose-gold loop (rose?!) in my chubby ring finger was not part of my plans! The bar we went to was a nice latino-ambient dancing place, with the exception that people were not dancing, but drinking. We, however, did. During our second dance the bouncer came to us and whispered in my ear. I genuinely though he was going to ban me from dancing, as my dancing skills are conspicuous by its absence; anyhow, he politely “asked” me to wear my shoes again (yes, I do love barefooting (Toccoa, if you’re reading this, I want you to know that I feel your pain)). There was some more dancing after (which made me wonder again about my neperian hormons) and cinderella’s time called the night (O_ô).

To life.

Burj Al Arab

Ladies


Random note: I find it interesting the complicity that we women have with each other in this city. If lost or wandering alone at night (or during the desert torrid street at daytime) you always feel a deep feeling of reassurance when asking a woman for directions. You (well, I) feel safe and feel as if you were talking with an old neighbor who’s known you for ages and who’s always been there to lend you some eggs for baking. The other night an Italian girl stopped me for directions and we almost end up having dinner together (you’re warned: sometimes I enlarge upon certain events); such was our sisterhood feeling.


jueves, 5 de septiembre de 2013

Vulnerability status: Fully embraced.

04.09.2013

I met Conor this morning. He’s an Irish guy (Steph, I’m thinking of you every minute) with crazy amounts of experience in the wildlife field. He’s done the WAH Msc, a residency in San Diego and plenty of other stuff. He’s now studying for another accreditation, on top of everything else. As cool as that sounds, it makes me reconsider the wildlife path again. Is there any sense for all this? Will I be looking for a secure place for the rest of my life and be in the hunt of jobs every few years? Probably yes. Don’t take me wrong, I love changes, but only if I AM the one deciding when to take them :). The idea of a PhD in Public/One Health is growing stronger…

Cuando estaba en el aeropuerto pude sentir los años pesándome en la espalda, en las canas, y hasta en el dedo chiquito de los pies. El macuto me pesaba mucho más de esos 11kg que marcaba la báscula. Afortunadamente, en dos días me he recuperado y vuelvo a estar en marcha para viajar indefinidamente. Qué susto!

Anyway… Today after work we went to a talk at Jumeirah hotel (the one about N.Forbes I told you about). The talk itself has been unremarkable (advertising of zoo animal’s food and recovery diets*), however, I got pleasantly surprised when Carlos R. (an old colleague from Uni) popped into the hall. We kind of lost track a few years ago and finally and randomly we met here in Dubai (we were 6 Spanish people in there! You can imagine how the chatting went on and on)! C&M came to my place to catch up over a coffee: again, thoughts about the future crumbled my brain. More aquaculture, private wildlife collections, living abroad, solitude, injustices due to money and sex gender, challenges of living in a male chauvinist society, peace of mind…

After the lovely reunion, I got a lift to meet with some other CSs at Desert Palm resort, where we watched a movie in a big screen while enjoying pop-corns (:)!) in the pool. The place took my breath away and made me reconsider the idea of getting married with a rich guy (who said love?). Below, some pictures. I wore my bikini (good thing I brought it!)and soaked in the water for hours. I think my soul finally got nicely hydrated (although some salty water from the Arabian Gulf will definitely have a longer and perdurable effect). The CSs were great and I got offered another lift home and unconditional support in the city (on top of the discovery of “pipper drink”).

Me!


Some of the CS that night
 


*Just a note about the talk: I asked the cute Dutch guy about the origin of the raw crops they were using as basic ingredients for their food. I was nicely surprised (aaa-gain) when he said it was grown by local farmers in Africa, as part of a sustainable project to recover the eroded land (eroded by formerly imported “exotic” (to the area) cattle and other hoofstock). Endemic flora was deplenished by exotic species and only unorganized mats of small unproductive bushes (and therefore land) remained. Farmers are now in charge of the clearance and proper management of that land at the same time that they make a living out of it. They produce the crop, take care of the land, balance the ecosystem with regards to little bugs and soil composition and become able to support themselves and families by trading the yield with Europe (yes, there’s the  footprint stuff, but I really believe that benefits overcome the pitfalls…). Nice.

Downtown





Nice contrast


I stepped into this shop, where they were playing  "Ella", de Bebe (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VH6LG2WDD4)

As I had no friends backing me up, I took a pic to some strangers.


I will pay ANYTHING

03.09.2013

Today (Tue) I met our big boss (who's tuned out to be Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum's brother, my apologies for the wrong information provided yesterday!). He is a quite impressive Emirate, with big hands, vitiligo in lips and fingers, busy eyebrows, inquisitive and sincere eyes and such a cottony voice that makes you want to hug him and squeeze him ( I was happy with a hand shake, though). I, predictably, felt in love.
Besides his physical characteristics of a full-fledged man, he offered us a high quality brewed cappuccino, freshly picked dates (specifically picked for us!) and a velvety avocado smoothie. What else do you need to get your heart melted? We had a nice one-hour talk, with laughs, periods of silence and warmed intersperses sips of brevage. One of the funniest stories rose when talking about English language and us (foreigners) trying to learn how to speak it properly (a most of the times lost battle). The anecdote goes as follows: Both of them were having a high standard business meeting at a very posh restaurant with very VIP company (I think you get the idea) when his wife’s turn to ask for drinks came. Toda digna, she asked for a glass of cock (instead of coke). Inevitably, giggling and blushing happened. (Reading this now doesn’t sound THAT funny, but I promise it was when he told the story...).

After work I decided to go and explore “the big city” for the first time. I was brave enough to walk 30 min (and of course, get lost) towards the tube station under the scorching 39ºC sun. It is not surprising that Dubai is not peasant-friendly in any way: this heat can kill anyone who dares to defy the power of solar energy. To feel a bit more local (ex-pat local type!), I bought the NUL-card (Dubai’s oyster), valid for a whole year (it will be my legacy for the future interns). Even though it was pick hour, I was happily surprised of the spaciousness of the wagons. I had plenty of space and was almost able to sit. My eyes were on stalks (;)) when I left my head and saw dozens of men piled 5 meters away from my heavenly free of crowdiness (let me make up some words... it is called writer’s licence) carriage. I had stepped into the women-only-carriage without even noticing and I am afraid to say that I’ve become addicted to it. What a blessing... Apparently, the ratio male:female is 1:7, so it is paramount to keep as cautious and away from (single) men as possible :S. A simple smile can trigger an invitation to harassment. I’m finding it difficult not to smile in the street to random people or not to say good morning to the workers at my doorstep. But... I guess I just have to follow the rules I’ve been taught.
My destination reached, I got off the tube (or metro, as they call it here) and followed an astonishing 828m long concrete a/c tongue that took me straight to the Dubai Mall, in “Downtown Dubai”. (see pics, whenever I can download them...).  In this area you can find the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world (yesterday’s pic! Though you cannot see the tip at the end of it), the Dubai Aquarium (I met the director of curators, a Spanish girl from Jeréz, and will probably get the chance to get a private aquaculture-tour), and the Duabi Fountain, amongst others.

I finished the night with my first CS meeting in Dubai, where I met a really nice guy who reminds me loads to Yuri and who blew my mind when openly accepted that he was working in an engineer-full (oh, yes! more and more engies) ghetto in Iraq just for the money. Now I feel stupid for being THAT surprised, but still gets me the chills when thinking about it. I decided not to go for beer, and had a fresh watermelon juice instead. Yummy!
Oh, Canada! There’s a picture especially for you.

martes, 3 de septiembre de 2013

No country for... hippies


Too late for anything else than a pic.

lunes, 2 de septiembre de 2013

Back on the road

31 Aug 2013
Bueno mundo, bueno natxo,

Heme aquí en la gaugua de camino al aeropuerto. Un juggler está haciendo tricks en la carretera bajo el incipiente y raramente ya familiar sol veraniego, con la 88 (que termina en Camden town) esperando pacientemente  a que el semáforo torne verde. 

Se me queda un nudo en la barriga, que asciende destino corazón, cuando me despido. “Cuanto antes me despida, antes me olvidaré de ti”. Me dicen que no es una frase romántica pero yo solo puedo ver amor en cada una de esas letras.

Pero no nos distraigamos, pues yo quiero hablaros de mí, para mí, por mí. Quiero recordarme, en un futuro, cómo me cambió otro más de mis viajes, de mis vueltas de hojas, de mis mudas de piel.

Marcho a Dubai, durante mis vacaciones del PDSA (mi currito en Lnd) para hacer un internado de 4 semanas en un hospital de halcones. Verdaderamente, no tengo muy claro qué es lo que voy a hacer. Lo que sé es que los halcones son demasiado caros para andar jugando con ellos, voy a poder hacer endonscopias y fracture repairs en cadáveres, y tomaré decisiones a la hora de tratar colecciones privadas de fauna salvaje del mandamás-figura autoritaria de Dubai, Rashid Al Maktoum. Sé que el centro forma parte de un programa de rehabilitación de especies en peligro tales como ciertos antílopes y una especie de guepardo procedente del norte de África, pero no sé hasta qué modo estaré envuelta en esto.

Después de Dubai, marcho a Turquía por una semana, pues una muy buena amiga se me casa (dos veces en una semana!). Estaré rondando por entre Bodrum y Ankara.

Soy consciente de que he estado bastante tiempo sin dar noticias, pero esto de disfrutar la vida al máximo tiene el turndown de que no te deja mucho tiempo libre, y el que te queda, lo quieres usar para ti (.Para mí). Sin embargo, y como ya bien sabéis después de todos estos años, este mail os llega porque se os quiere y pienso a menudo en vosotros.

Voy a escribir en el blog (http://ekukia.blogspot.ae/) e ir saltando del inglés al español, así más o menos tendréis todos (los que queráis) una idea generalizada de lo que ocurre.


02.Sept.2013

Dearest beloved ones,

I’m going to try to satisfy your thirst of knowledge about my whereabouts as good as possible. It is, as you should already know, much easier for me to write in Spanish than in English. However, I’m going to give it a try. Only under one condition: Once in a while I need one of you to correct some of the terribly written sentences posted in this blog. Like that, not only me, but all the other Spanish readers (hopefully a bunch of good friends) will learn from my mistakes and your altruist generosity.

Having said so, let’s start some writing…

I got to Dubai 2 days ago, ready to start a 4 weeks internship at a Falcon Hospital where I’ll be working with falcons and private wildlife collections. Of course, there is a small moral issue here, but the desire of learning, traveling and to experience a different culture have driven me here. Besides, I’ve only heard good things about this internship, so why shouldn’t I try.

I find it ironic that these are my holidays: when in London I have a 2days/week contract (although it is known that I always work a bit more than that!), whereas here I’m going to be working full time! Do not worry, though: at the end of this month I’ll start a lovely journey through Turkey alongside my dearest and engaged friend Damla.  Can’t wait.

Back to right here, right now (sorry, I know I repeat myself). The falcons we treat at the hospital are property of or are sponsored by Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the ruler of Dubai. Therefore, HE pays for all the expenses, meaning that we do not have to deal with money (kind of a PDSA, but for rich and well positioned people).  Today Sarah, the nurse, had to go to the palace to have a talk with him and was thinking of taking me along, however, “our (big) boss” was busy with mysterious duties and we finally couldn’t go. Next time, maybe.

I’m still waiting for Conor, my future mentor, to arrive. Till that moment, I’m working only at the falcon hospital, where the day carries on as follows: We start at 8am, when clients arrive with their falcons and fill in some basic paperwork. Most of the falcons arriving these days are new acquisitions (from anywhere in the world: USA, Germany, UK…) or former champions from last year falconry exhibitions that require a general check up. This grossly includes: PE, weight, blood sample (HTC, smear, WBC manual count), crop swab, faeces sample (direct microscopy), xray, endoscopy and biopsy of lesions when necessary. Así que entran y salen como chorizos. One thing to bear in mind, the pace is way slower than at the PDSA: case by case, never dealing with two animals at a time (qué decir de 3 ó 4!), no stress present (so far). Lovely. I have the impression that working with Indian people plays a role here, which I’m really thankful for (they are so polite and gentle!). So far we have had peregrine falcons, gyr falcons, barn owls, desert eagle owls and a Harris’s hawk (cool!). This morning we also had a one-month old Speke’s gazelle with a distal metatarsal fracture, quite nasty and close to the joint :S. A. made a phone call and recommended to turn it into cheetah food, but someone at the palace wanted us to try... so we did. Poor little 2.5kg baby, cute as only an innocent toddler gazelle can be. Such eyes can melt anyone’s heart. Will come back next week for a check up.
As I was saying, Connor will come tomorrow and I’ll learn a bit more about my duties. Ah! On Thurs Neil Forbes is coming to give a talk and we’re all invited :).

I’ll try to post pics and update the with different topics a few times per week (sometimes in Spanish, sometimes in English), but can’t promise. Also, the internet connection in my little house is quite crap and I have to get outside to upload anything (meaning leaving the a/c behind and adventure myself into the melting reality of the dustiest and hottest place ever – I think my laptop is just about to catch fire :S).

I haven’t explored the city so far as I’m still settling down (and getting used to the heat!). 
Soon, my children.